So, a quick update on the “couture dress” project I’ve undertaken.
Here’s where am I in the process…
After two fittings, I was satisfied with the alterations I made and transferred those adjustments to my muslin pieces. Then…
- I separated the bodice, midriff and skirt sections.
- Since my fabric really ravels a lot, against I’m sure what Susan Khalie would say, I serged the seam allowance edges separately to finish them off and control the raveling. Hey, you gotta do what you gotta do.
- I did a test of 2 layers of fabric and 2 layers of silk organza to find a stitch length I was happy with.
- Starting with the skirt section, I sewed each seam, removed the basting stitches, pressed the seams flat and then open
- Used a catch stitch to hand tack along each salvage edge to the silk organza.
- Followed that same procedure for the bodice and the midriff.
- Stay stitched sections of the bodice as directed and added strips of organza as additional stays to the front sides and across the back.
- Stay stitched along the edges of the midriff, measured to ensure all sections were still equal size.
- Pinned and then hand basted the midriff and bodice together. I was really careful to match the seam lines so pinned over the basting, used my machine basting stitch just over those sections to confirm and then sewed the entire seam using a regular stitch length.
- Followed the same procedure on the skirt then used a catch stitch to hold those seams open.
- Added additional vertical stays along the side and center front bodice seams to help them stay an even height without affect to the horizontal flexibility of the fabric.
- Basted then sewed the shoulder seams.
- Pull out all remaining basting stitches
- Hand insert the zipper
- Do the lining (all of it!)
I realize I don’t have a zipper for this dress (all of mine are invisible and that’s not what you use with this project). I also don’t have beeswax, but watching the lesson, I think I’ll get some of that too for hand sewing the zipper. Bottom line – off to the store tomorrow.
I could get started on laying out/cutting my lining, but I think I need to do that early in the day, not at the end.
While this is certainly a lot of work, it’s a great learning experience. As my husband said “I’m really glad you’re sewing, but geez there sure is a lot of thread all over the place!” True that!
Overall, I’m really pleased with how this dress is shaping up. Once I get the zipper in, I’ll share some pics.
Meanwhile, Happy Sewing!